The most
important effect of roasting beans is that the flavor is developed through
the complex chemical changes caused by heat, which is the process of
pyrolysis. It is estimated that a coffee bean contains more than 2,000
chemical substances, which may be broken down or changed during roasting
into hundreds of "volatile aroma compounds". Various acids, oils,
proteins, vitamins, sugars, starches, and caffeine are altered; some are
enhanced and some are diminished. In certain cases, some substances are
both developed and then burned away if the roasting time is extended.
A light
roast is seldom used commercially, as it shows up all the flaws inherent
in beans, many of which will disappear, or at least be hidden by other
flavors, in a dark roast. For example, if a coffee has the distinctive,
sometimes unusual, pleasant and expensively-acidic qualities of a
high-grown Arabica, it is better for it not to be dark-roasted. The darker
the roast, the more uniform all coffees taste, as a truly dark roast will
overwhelm the taste-buds, allowing them to perceive nothing of the coffee
itself. A darker roast may sweeten some coffees, but only to a point; past
a certain degree of roast all coffee becomes bitter. Also, the darker the
roast, the greater the loss of acidity, that most sought-after quality.
Coffee
roasters all vary in size and capacity, but the roasting process changes
little from one size to another. All equipment should be pre-heated to a
roasting temperature some minutes before the green beans are added, so all
surfaces are uniformly hot. Many roasters are equipped with a revolving
drum, often lined internally with curved metal strips which constantly
toss the beans towards the centre of the drum. Above all, beans must be
kept moving if they are to roast evenly, without burning. In fact, if a
drum stops revolving while the heat is still on and the beans are hot,
there is a danger of instant combustion within the drum. (The saying goes,
"You're not a coffee roaster 'til you've had your first fire!")